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Remo Practise Kit

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Step 22

Pad Completed

Diy Edrums

This Do It Yourself is based around the Remo practise kit and was authored by persons unknown as we were not able to trace them for acknowledgements etc. You should be able to pick up these practise kits pretty cheaply these days and the methods applied here would probably work on any similar kit. It is a couple of years old as well so pricing would have changed.

To complete this kit you would require a brain ( of the drum variety that is) hi-hat controller, hi-hat and cymbal pads. You could link it to something like BFD or Drums from Hell (Drum Software) via a midi interface controller such as Rolands TMC-6 to your computer

What you will need:

Radio Shack Piezo Transducer (273-073A),
Radio Shack Shielded Phono Jack (274-346), soldering iron, liquid flux,
epoxy,
xacto knife,
1/4" drill bit,
26awg 12" x 24" plate metal,
cutting sheers,
20 minutes of your time

1. When you take the pad apart, you will find 3 things inside. The head, a mylar disc, and a circular foam piece.

2. Set the other things aside, and split the foam piece in half using an X-Acto blade. Try to keep it as even as possible, in other words, take your time.

3. Make a 2" slit all the way around the pad, and you have this clam here. Keep going, split it in half

4. Foam piece split in 2. Set these aside for now.

5. Now you need to take the actual piezo element out of the plastic housing. Stick a blade into the little notched corner on both sides, and pop the plastic plate off.

6. Don't break the piezo! Be careful. It's not incredibly easy, but it's not terribly difficult. Just get rid of all the plastic. When done you will have the bare piezo element as such. Set this aside for now.

7. Take the mylar disc and use it as a template for our transfer plate.

8. Use the shears and cut the bulk of your circle out. Its much easier to work with this metal when you just need to cut away small parts. This is not as easy as scissor and paper, but it's totally manageable. BTW. DO NOT CUT yourself. This is very sharp, so wear gloves

9. Here is the circle cut out and placed inside of the pad. It does not have to be a PERFECT circle, but as close to it as you can get. As long as it fits inside of the pad with a small gap on all sides, you are fine. When cutting this out, you want to cut about 3/4" INSIDE of the circle you drew.

10. Draw a dot in the very center of your circle, and then score it with a knife. This gives the epoxy and piezo a nice coarse surface to stick to. Draw about 12 - 14 lines from many different angles to make a sort of waffle type of pattern.

11. Grab the piezo element, mix your epoxy and apply a good amount covering the ENTIRE BOTTOM side of the piezo. The BRASS bottom side, NOT the top portion.

12. Gently push the piezo element onto the metal plate. Once it is placed, push down firmly so that the epoxy makes a nice ring around the element as the photo shows. This will cure in about 5 minutes, and its not going ANYWHERE. I've read people have used hot glue for this, but hot glue becomes very brittle and will fall apart.

13. Take one of the foam halves, and slice a 1" - 2" slit all the way through the pad in the center. This is the pass through for the wires from the piezo that will go to our RCA jack.

14. Punch a hole through the bottom of the pad. Don't make the hole too close to the edge, or the piezo wires won't reach. After punching the hole, use the 1/4" drill bit and hand drill the hole for the RCA jack.

15. After the hole is drilled, insert the RCA jack through the hole.

16. View of the other side with the jack coming through. You see the metal washer, locking nut, and the RING element here. RING is for negative, and TIP is for positive. (Ring/negative being black wire, Tip/positive being red wire from piezo element).

17. Follow this closely. Take the BLACK lead from the piezo element, apply a nice dollop of flux to the end of the wire and to the ring element and make a nice quick clean solder bond.

18. Run both wires from the piezo through the bottom foam piece with the slit in it. Now you can slide the ring element on the RCA jack, slide the washer on, and tighten the lock nut.

19. Now we can solder the positive/red wire to the TIP portion of the RCA jack. Again, only after the negative has been soldered to ring, and the ring has been attached and the locking nut tightened down. Also, this must be done with the piezo wires passed through the slit of the bottom foam piece. We're almost done.

20. Now we have the plate, with the all brass part of the piezo epoxied to the bottom. The red and black wires from the piezo element have passed through the slit we made on the bottom portion of foam, and have been properly soldered, and the rca jack is bolted in.

21. Now, take the remaining foam half, and place it over the metal plate. Put the mylar disc on top of that, and assemble the pad.

22. Pad is now re-assembled.

And this is what the back looks like. Total time to make this pad, with the hinderance of taking photos: 30 minutes. You now have a fully functional, velocity sensitive, solid as a rock electronically triggered drum pad. Of course, you can always blow $120 and buy a Roland pad, or you can get a used Remo on eBay for $10, and spend $3.00 at Radio Shack.

Now you have to repeat for all the other pads - Good Luck

Historic landmarks and historic homes in the US.

Electrodrum

Electrodrum

Diy Edrums

What you will need:

Radio Shack Piezo Transducer (273-073A),

Radio Shack Shielded Phono Jack (274-346), soldering iron, liquid flux,

epoxy,

xacto knife,

1/4" drill bit,

26awg 12" x 24" plate metal,

cutting sheers,

20 minutes of your time

1. When you take the pad apart, you will find 3 things inside. The head, a mylar disc, and a circular foam piece.

2. Set the other things aside, and split the foam piece in half using an X-Acto blade. Try to keep it as even as possible, in other words, take your time.

3. Make a 2" slit all the way around the pad, and you have this clam here. Keep going, split it in half

4. Foam piece split in 2. Set these aside for now.

5. Now you need to take the actual piezo element out of the plastic housing. Stick a blade into the little notched corner on both sides, and pop the plastic plate off.

6. Don't break the piezo! Be careful. It's not incredibly easy, but it's not terribly difficult. Just get rid of all the plastic. When done you will have the bare piezo element as such. Set this aside for now.

7. Take the mylar disc and use it as a template for our transfer plate.

8. Use the shears and cut the bulk of your circle out. Its much easier to work with this metal when you just need to cut away small parts. This is not as easy as scissor and paper, but it's totally manageable. BTW. DO NOT CUT yourself. This is very sharp, so wear gloves

9. Here is the circle cut out and placed inside of the pad. It does not have to be a PERFECT circle, but as close to it as you can get. As long as it fits inside of the pad with a small gap on all sides, you are fine. When cutting this out, you want to cut about 3/4" INSIDE of the circle you drew.

10. Draw a dot in the very center of your circle, and then score it with a knife. This gives the epoxy and piezo a nice coarse surface to stick to. Draw about 12 - 14 lines from many different angles to make a sort of waffle type of pattern.

11. Grab the piezo element, mix your epoxy and apply a good amount covering the ENTIRE BOTTOM side of the piezo. The BRASS bottom side, NOT the top portion.

13. Take one of the foam halves, and slice a 1" - 2" slit all the way through the pad in the center. This is the pass through for the wires from the piezo that will go to our RCA jack.

14. Punch a hole through the bottom of the pad. Don't make the hole too close to the edge, or the piezo wires won't reach. After punching the hole, use the 1/4" drill bit and hand drill the hole for the RCA jack.

15. After the hole is drilled, insert the RCA jack through the hole.

16. View of the other side with the jack coming through. You see the metal washer, locking nut, and the RING element here. RING is for negative, and TIP is for positive. (Ring/negative being black wire, Tip/positive being red wire from piezo element).

17. Follow this closely. Take the BLACK lead from the piezo element, apply a nice dollop of flux to the end of the wire and to the ring element and make a nice quick clean solder bond.

18. Run both wires from the piezo through the bottom foam piece with the slit in it. Now you can slide the ring element on the RCA jack, slide the washer on, and tighten the lock nut.

20. Now we have the plate, with the all brass part of the piezo epoxied to the bottom. The red and black wires from the piezo element have passed through the slit we made on the bottom portion of foam, and have been properly soldered, and the rca jack is bolted in.

21. Now, take the remaining foam half, and place it over the metal plate. Put the mylar disc on top of that, and assemble the pad.

22. Pad is now re-assembled.